Care of Stapeliads

Lighting- In habitat, most Stapeliads grow in partially protected areas (under a bush or tree, between some rocks, etc.), so most are best kept by providing either part sun with afternoon protection, or a shaded greenhouse position. For shaded positions, the plants should receive light all day, with a maximum shade percentage of 40% (30% is better).

There are exceptions to the above generalization, primarily the Carallumas, Rhytidocaulons and Hoodias, which often prefer stronger light and more open exposure. Note: The genus Caralluma has been revised recently and many species were moved to Orbea, etc. Here, when we are speaking of Carallumas, we are talking about the current classification, which is not always followed in the catalog. The Orbea-type ‘Carallumas’ should be treated as all other Stapeliads.

Watering- In cultivation, most Stapeliads prefer moderate to low, but always consistent water in the warm months. In the winter, and in the height of summer (if temps are regularly over 95F), watering should be low as they are prone to rot during these times. In winter, it's ok to let the plants dry out for two or three weeks between waterings. It is also always helpful to water only around the base of the plants, avoiding getting the stems wet.

Temperatures- Ideally, We’ve found it best to keep temps in a range between 70 – 95F. Anything greater or lesser than this and watering should be reduced. We don’t recommend temps under 50F at all, though most could probably survive it if kept bone dry.

Air circulation- This is very important, especially if you’re in a humid environment. It will drastically decrease the chances of fungal infection.

Soil- Stapeliads are fairly tolerant of a wide range of soil types. We are currently using a bark based mix with added coir called ‘metromix 366-p’ to which we add a bit of perlite and turface, and perhaps a small amount of peat. Generally, most commercial potting soils will work ok if you add a good amount of perlite or pumice to them. Beware of mixes containing moisture retention chemicals, and also avoid the generic brands which are often mushroom compost, topsoil, etc. The mix should be light, not heavy.

Potting- The choice between plastic or clay should be largely determined on the degree of humidity in your area. Clay pots are better in hot, humid areas (and greenhouses) as they help dissipate any excess water. They also help to keep the roots a bit cooler by evaporative cooling. When using clay, the amount of pumice or perlite in your soil can be decreased slighty.

Plastic pots are better in drier areas as they aid in moisture retention, which can be a problem in well draining soils. If you choose plastic, don’t use black plastic as it can overheat the roots. It’s also beneficial when using plastic to add an extra bit of perlite or pumice, to insure proper drainage and aeration of the soil.

Whether using clay or plastic, we recommend using ‘azalea’-style pots, which are several inches shorter than the average pot. Most Stapeliads don’t have very deep roots and usually do better in pots like this. The large stemmed Stapelias will benefit from large pots as deep as 10 inches, while the smaller, prostrate Stapeliads can be grown in trays as shallow as 2 inches. Generally, something in between will be best. It’s all about the average root depth.

A top-dressing of gravel, turface, coarse sand, etc. is always beneficial. Pests and disease- Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs are the only really serious pest of Stapeliads. If you have a small collection, the easiest thing to do is simply pick them off, or use a q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol to kill them. For larger collections, or for root mealies, the best thing is probably a systemic insecticide. We use Imidacloprid as a soil drench usually. It’s a fairly safe chemical, also currently in use as a flea and tick medicine for dogs and cats, so it can’t be too bad. You can either get this as a wettable powder at your local horticultural supply house (which can be expensive), or there is also a granular form used on turf which can usually be obtained at your local hardware store. The granular form should be used in excess of the recommendation and mixed into the soil, or placed under the top dressing. We prefer the wettable powder.

Another chemical which works well is dimethoate, but it’s a much harsher chemical.

Mites can also occasionally be a problem, see our comments on the ‘cultivation tips’ page.<[> Fungal diseases are best combated by giving your plants adequate air circulation and drainage. There are some preventative treatments to consider, but most are only cost effective if you have a large collection. There are a number of bacterial inoculants that supposedly decrease the rate of fungal infection. We’ve tried several of these and they do seem to work. Of course, as with any preventative, it’s really hard to tell what constitutes ‘working’. What you should definitely not do is to use fungicides as a preventative, as this will weaken your plant’s natural immune system and promote the development of resistant strains.

If your plants do become infected, simply cut off the infected area with a clean razor blade, making sure you remove it all. If you’re plant is rotting from the base, simply take cuttings, treat them with rooting hormone, and plant them in a new pot, in a warm area, with clean soil.